Abstract:
The fashion industry causes serious environmental impacts through its consumption of
energy and material resources and its use of chemicals. Alternatives to business-as-usual
practices within the fashion industry can effectively address such concerns but will need to
involve various actors and operate across a range of scales. Upcycling, the process of
deconstructing waste clothing and textiles and reconstructing them into new products
represents an alternative that, in theory, reduces waste and increases resource efficiency by
extending the lifetimes of products and materials, thereby contributing to reducing industrial
energy consumption. Upcycling businesses have the potential to be financially sustainable and
can create jobs for disadvantaged people. Despite potential economic, environmental and
social benefits, upcycling remains a niche practice. A process of ‘scaling up’, whereby an
initially unusual practice becomes mainstream [8], is necessary in the case of upcycling to
enable the transition of the fashion industry towards sustainability.
Previous research in fashion upcycling includes a description of the concept and process,
reflection on the practice, design guidelines and an exploration of consumers’ purchase
intentions. Past studies have paid attention to limited aspects of fashion upcycling businesses
and a comprehensive synthesis of viewpoints from the diverse stakeholders involved in the
business is lacking. This paper aims to provide such a synthesis, focusing on the challenges
and success factors for expanding (or scaling up) British upcycling businesses in fashion
industry. Based on ongoing research, it uses semi-structured interviews with seven
stakeholder groups in fashion upcycling (design entrepreneurs, in-house designers/ makers,
suppliers, distributors, retail salespersons, business managers and consumers). The results
show the perceived common challenges and success factors for upscaling fashion upcycling
businesses in the UK across roles, and identifies unique role-specific perspectives. The paper
concludes with causal loop diagrams linking different system variables (i.e. challenges,
success factors, measures of business success) in fashion upcycling businesses.
