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Item Metadata only Indigenous Heritage in Latin American Fashion(Bloomsbury, 2024-04-18) Beltrán-Rubio, LauraItem Metadata only Stories and clothes: Exploring textile supply chains for sustainable futures(Intellect, 2019-12-01) Lerpiniere, ClaireThis article explores a method for engaging students with ethical and sustainable issues within the textile design supply chain through encouraging them to explore the stories embodied within a garment. By putting themselves into the story of their garment, its production is conceptualized as a narrative, with a range of roles, timelines and locations. Exploring stories within their garment illuminates both positive and negative narratives, whereby the impacts of production methods are explored to examine current practice in industry, manufacturing, and investigate innovative models for responsible design. Through a process of reverse engineering the garment from its completed form backward through its creation, back to its base fibres, alternative models of manufacturing, distribution, energy use and design outcomes are explored and suggested. Conceptualizing each stage of the production cycle as a series of stories, from initial fibre selection through to final garment purchase and consumption, is done to encourage empathy and connections between the student designer and the people who produced their garment within the complex global textiles supply chain.Item Embargo Wear and Tear: Life Stories and Sartorial Experiences in the First World War(Edinburgh University Press, 2024) Neal, RachelDuring the First World War, 1914–1918, the British Army uniform provided an important tool in the transition from civilian to soldier and a symbol of a mass collective identity. However, soldier writings from the war and post-war years reveal the more individual experiences of their uniforms and the intimate relationships that formed between their physicality and the materiality of the garment. Focusing on the uniform experiences of British servicemen during the First World War, this article explores the narratives recorded in soldier correspondence, diaries and life writing to discover how men, despite wearing military uniform, continued to express the sartorial identities and practices developed as civilians. The uniform was central to soldiers’ physicality and their writings show that the materiality of the uniform became a conduit for their sensory and haptic experiences of the landscape around them. Yet the uniform remained only a temporary sartorial shift and, underneath, civilian identities and sensibilities remained resolute. Evidence of sartorial interventions and personalization expose the attempts to ameliorate the fit and feel of the uniform. Shining a light on these narratives of the uniform on a more personal and affective level challenges us to reconsider the boundaries between uniformity and individuality.Item Open Access Nottingham Artists & Policymakers Cafe(2023-11-14) Dickinson, LauraResearch publication launch event, presentation and public workshop for 'A Social Policy for Gentrification'. Part of the Being Human National festival of Humanities research. The café set a space to explore local planning policy in Nottingham through fashion, poetry, mark making and collage. Public received a free copy of the publication ‘A Social Policy for Gentrification’ and were invited to learn about the project with a talk from project lead Laura Dickinson and invited artist Stephen Hughes followed by an invite to respond to local urban building developments through various creative media.Item Embargo 3D Printing Based on Material Extrusion to Create Surface Patterns on Textile Fabrics(Springer, 2023-09-26) Alsabhi, Randa; Davies, Angela; Bingham, Guy; Shen, Jinsong3D printing technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. This technology is extensively used for producing prototypes of products and their designs with a wide range of materials in the manufacturing industry. The Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) process uses the extrusion of molten thermoplastic materials through heated printing nozzle to create design objects layer by layer. The current research was to develop 3D printing technology on textile fabrics to create surface design based on FDM process using the Ultimake 3D printer. Printing parameters play an important role for printing on fabrics specially to achieve strong adhesion between the printed patterns and the surface of the fabrics. This research developed a method for assessing the attachment strength in the interface between the printed objects and the surface of fabrics. The effect of the initial setting distance between the printing nozzle and the printing platform on the performance of 3D printed fabrics was investigated. The research work demonstrated the ability to create different design patterns in 3D on the fabrics with excellent durability to washing, which shows potential for the commercial application in fashion industry.Item Embargo A study of new washing machine for the care of delicate garments by testing on wool and silk fabrics(Taylor and Francis, 2023-12-01) Zhao, Xin; Shen, Jinsong; Ding, XuemeiThere is an increasing demand for gentle laundry and care of the delicate and high-end garments for maintaining their performance and appearance during the use. A tapping washing system was designed for the care of delicate garments. Adjustable and steady up-down tapping force was applied on fabrics or garments during laundry through the centric slider-crank mechanism with control parameters, such as the magnitude and frequency of the tapping force, washing temperature and duration, etc. By comparing with traditional drum rotation washing on wool and silk fabrics, the tapping washing method could prevent felting shrinkage of wool fabrics and crease of silk fabrics, and maintain their good appearance, although the washing efficiency for the removal of soils from garments needs to be further explored. The newly designed prototype of the tapping washing device could be the foundation for future research on gentle washing without the movement of fabrics but circulation of detergent washing solution during tapping action on the fabrics.Item Open Access A Social Policy for Gentrification(Laura Dickinson, 2023-09-28) Dickinson, Laura‘A Social Policy for Gentrification' contains a short poetic series alongside photography, artworks and the co-created findings of “There’s Still Life Here” - a collection of public thought on local planning policy gathered during related exhibitive projects in both Nottingham and Leicester.Item Metadata only How is Education Championing New Equitable Practices?(FACE - Fashion Academics Creating Equality, 2023-07-12) Hawthorne, Davina; Lloyd, Sharon; Sabri, Dr Duna; Khandola, Max; Dawe, Katy; Nishat, SaimaBuilding on last year’s success, join members of ‘Fashion Academics Creating Equality’ for the FACE Pre-Summit 1.5. Using our 4 pillars: Power Position Privilege Purpose we build on anti-racist dialogue and shared purposeItem Metadata only FACE SUMMIT - 2022: Hair, Race and Beauty Intertwined(FACE - Fashion Academics Creating Equality, 2022-10-14) Hawthorne, Davina; Khandola, Max; Sinclair, Rose; Tarlo, EmmaHair: Untold Hair Stories is an online exhibition that explores personal narratives attached to hair from Black, Brown and Asian perspectives within the UK. There are two parts to this exhibition. The first features stories and work from the FACE academic community. The second features images and texts produced by undergraduates, postgraduates and graduates of Beauty, Fashion and Textiles.Item Open Access FACE X Horniman – Hair: Untold Hair Stories is an online exhibition that explores personal narratives attached to hair from Black, Brown and Asian perspectives within the UK.(Horniman, 2022-06-13) Davina, Hawthorne; Lloyd, Sharon; Goff, Jacob; Odogwu-Atkinson, Benita; Marshall, Michelle; Bryne, Sarah; Tarlo, EmmaThere are two parts to this exhibition. The first features stories and work from the FACE academic community. The second features images and texts produced by undergraduates, postgraduates and graduates of Beauty, Fashion and Textiles. Both students and academics explore the complex relationship between hair and identity, revealing the importance of generational traditions in different communities and the power of creative invention. The visual and written chronicles that emerge are political, many of them highlighting the continued presence of racial discrimination in relation to hair as well as documenting resistance and creativity in spite of and in response to this. Taken together, these stories highlight and celebrate a wide diversity of hair textures and hair arts while sparking conversations about long-standing Eurocentric beauty standards in the UK. These accounts should no longer be suppressed or excluded from our educational curriculum or from the beauty and fashion industries. We hope that such conversations will help to inspire upcoming generations of designers, artists and educators of the future.Item Metadata only There's Still Life Here - Exhibition(2023-05-11) Dickinson, LauraThere's Still Life Here Part 2. exhibited in the DMU Atrium space from the 11 May to 5th June 2023. Building on part 1 the exhbition also included works from invited artists Gemma Vincent and Stephen Hughes alongside installation work from Laura Dickinson. The exhibition centered around three particular development sites documented in Nottingham and Leicester City planning policies. Using a multimedia approach this exhbition sought to connect public with policy around urban development. Viewers were also encouraged to participate and leave their own ideas for a social policy for gentrification within interactive elements of the exhibition.Item Metadata only There's Still Life Here - Exhibition(2022-07-01) Dickinson, LauraThere's Still Life Here - An exhibition documenting gentrification of urban areas in the East Midlands, UK and encouraging public participation in the creation of a social policy for gentrification. Mediums employed include fashion, film, music and poetry. The exhibtion took place at Beta-X a community gallery on Church Gate, Leicester.Item Embargo Gentrification and Fashion: A social art approach(Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023) Dickinson, LauraFor a long time, fashion has been a voice for social justice. From Jeremy Corbin's socialist pinstripe suit for the 2019 UK elections reading “FOR THE MANY NOT THE FEW” to Balenciaga’s Winter 22 show an ode to Ukraine set in a blizzard to the creative director, Demna reciting a Ukrainian poem. These messages could not be clearer when using fashion to raise the profile of important social issues but what if we reversed the process, what if fashion were not just a vessel for giving information but also for receiving? “There’s Still Life Here” is an ongoing investigation into the gentrification of urban areas and uses fashion to open dialogue with impacted communities to co-create social policy. The article discusses the interdisciplinary project, its participatory exhibition format exploring gentrification through fashion and its co-created findings resulting in an audio/visual zine output. The public were invited to actively participate and add to the exhibition in a communicable way through the familiarity of clothing. Intertwined with film, music and poetry the immersive exhibition opened dialogue highlighting the importance of social art by raising community ideas and solutions which have been collated into one creative publication, the Social Policy for Gentrification.Item Metadata only Upycling Exhibition, Design Season Leicester(De Montfort University, 2021-10) Gaukrodger-Cowan, SallyTROVIDS- Agricultural upcycled textiles- exhibited alongside the AHRC funded Upcycling competitionItem Metadata only Upcycling practices (2022): 01. Stencil making with a plastic carton by Sally Gaukrodger-Cowan, De Montfort University, UK / 02. Gelli printing plate with waste objects by Sally Gaukrodger-Cowan, De Montfort University, UK(2022) Gaukrodger-Cowan, SallyUpcycling practices (2022): 01. Stencil making with a plastic carton by Sally Gaukrodger-Cowan, De Montfort University, UK / 02. Gelli printing plate with waste objects by Sally Gaukrodger-Cowan, De Montfort University, UK [Video resources-As part of The International Upcycling Research Network ] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blIa7FZgtvQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUiLpAm-e08Item Metadata only Woven in Practice(Huddersfield University, 2021-04-24) Gaukrodger-Cowan, SallyName - Sally Gaukrodger-Cowan - Senior Lecturer and RIT [ Researcher in Training] at De Montfort University and practice based artist. Area of Interest- Fashion and textiles in COVID-19 - A personal journey creating, painting, mark making, experimentation and agricultural waste upcycled textiles installations using agricultural food sacks and waste, how COVID -19 inspired personal methodology, pedagogy and improved wellbeing. Affiliation- DMU Institute of Art and Design, The Textile Society, RSA. My work is informed by a lifelong obsession with colour and pattern influenced by personal heritage, life experiences and travel. Inspiration comes from many personal collections, comparing, reflecting and responding to stimuli. Memories and abstract ideas, vibrant colour, texture and pattern are an essential part of my practice. My personal methodology in the response to stimulus is to experiment and develop ideas, create colourful eccentric visual works through sketchbooks, mini video, installation, agricultural waste upcycling and sampling. Personal response to Covid 19 Throughout lockdown I have spent time exploring and investigating my artistic practice based in a tiny shed. I have felt re- energised and my creativity re-ignited. My shed practice has given me the opportunity to let go, experiment, try out new ideas and develop new ways of working. The shed has also fuelled new pedagogy and personal wellbeing. For the first time in 30 years I have had courage to explore new entities, enter competitions using polypropylene agricultural food sacks, I developed a series of Covid inspired pieces, named Trovids, this collection was successful and one of my upcycled ‘Trovid’ pieces was published in The Textile Society ‘News’ No.73, Summer 2020. This led onto further upcycled agricultural textile waste installations. Alongside the shed work I have attended online exhibitions, workshops, been a participant in post graduate research and created a one man mini pop up exhibition. This creative immersion enabled me to rejuvenate my passion for the arts, fuelled wellbeing, enthusiasm in my pedagogy and direction. Contact details- sgaukrodger-cowan@dmu.ac.uk or sallygaukrodgercowan@gmail.com Instagram- sallygaukrodger-cowan, trovids, and Embroidered people Website – www.sallygaukrodger.co.uk Abstract – Cess pit 2020 mixed media shed painting Covid Bloom-Trovid 2020 as appeared in The Textile Society News Summer edition Agricultural Upcycled textiles Trovid Kimono 2020 Installation Agricultural Upcycled textiles Trovid Mask 2020 Installation Agricultural Upcycled textiles and waste Trovid roar 2020 InstallationItem Embargo Portable Patriotism: Britannia and Material Nationhood in Miniature(Cambridge University Press, 2022-09) Dyer, SerenaThis chapter tackles how the concept of British nationhood was mediated by small, portable material goods in the century that followed the 1707 Acts of Union. While existing narratives of nation-making have focused on the political, religious, and military forging of Britishness, this chapter instead considers how Britain’s intersecting industrial and commercial transformations offered opportunities for manufacturers and retailers to commoditize nationhood through material culture. This chapter restores the materiality of nationhood to historical narratives of patriotism to show that the commercialization of Britishness, through small things, provided a means of manufacturing and molding an affective form of British identity. This chapter focuses specifically on how the figurehead of Britannia signalled a material patriotism that could be worn, carried, and displayed at moments of national importance. Her image, as warrior queen, mother of the nation, and colonial pioneer, was replicated on fans, jewelry, and other decorative objects to formulate miniature material articulations of a national rhetoric. These small items held chronometric and affective significance for their owners and were complex signals of both transient and more enduring feelings of patriotism.Item Open Access Diversity in Fashion and Textile Design education(International Federation of Fashion and Textiles Institutes, 2019-04) Hardaker, Carolyn; Penfold, BuddyThe drive for increased diversity in design is a contemporary issue and its importance is recognised by government think-tanks and leading academic networks. The Design Council’s recent report to investigate the link between diversity and business performance, profiles the UK design ecology and outlines the impact that increased diversity within the design community can bring. This paper puts this into an educational perspective in terms of fashion and textiles higher education. Based in the School of Design at De Montfort University in Leicester, one of the UK’s most culturally diverse cities, this study considers the current profile of fashion and textiles students and outlines current initiatives to promote the value of diversity. These initiatives actively present the debate to the student cohort, emphasising diversity through the use of positive role models across fashion and textiles disciplines. This paper also considers the student pipeline, and outlines an initiative to promote design as a potential career to key stage 3 pupils at local schools. This was focussed on footwear design and incorporated a novel activity pack to inspire and engage a diverse audience of potential future designers. The work is ongoing and the emphasis on diversity is seen as a very positive development to the fashion and textiles design curricula and ultimately the UK’s design ecology.Item Open Access Developing a Responsible Culture: Aligning Fashion and Textiles Education with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals(International Federation of Fashion nad Textiles Institutes, 2020-04) Penfiold, Buddy; Hardaker, CarolynIt is a pivotal time for fashion and textiles education. Concerns about ethical production and climate change, with the effect the industry has on the planet, is receiving intense media coverage. There are environmental consequences at each stage of a garment’s life cycle. These, combined with the rise of fast fashion over recent years, should make every citizen examine what positive changes they can make to reduce their environmental impact. De Montfort University (DMU) is in the top 50 world universities for impact as assessed by the UN sustainable development goals (SDG). This paper presents initiatives taken by the School of Fashion and Textiles to consider how responsible design has been integrated into teaching. A baseline review of the current curricula compared to the 17 UN SDGs was undertaken. A funded innovation and sustainability project highlighted the different approaches students had taken to sustainable design. Joint initiatives with international partners consider the global perspective. This work continues with a review of key environmental activists and considers how the curriculum can be further co-created with students to address industry needs. Student engagement will be evaluated by reviewing the influence of sustainable development within final year major project proposals.Item Open Access Re-imagining Fashion and Textiles Education: A UK Higher Education perspective of the opportunities and challenges for the discipline and students(IFFTI.org, 2021-10) Penfold, Buddy; Hardaker, CarolynThe global pandemic and subsequent need to move practical studio-based fashion and textile course content rapidly to an online format has provided a challenge and an opportunity to reconsider the curriculum delivery of practical design degrees. This paper will consider how this pivot has led school leads to reconsider the curriculum in terms of the balance between delivering the practical skills, knowledge and understanding for manufacturing and the cultural context, the conceptual aspects, materials and process knowledge, design research and design development methods. This paper will first consider the development process. Then it will assess the initial adaption of practical sessions to online teaching. It will consider the meaningful impact and benefits of the online pivot from a staff and student perspective and the future vision. Finally, the paper will consider the rapid learning curve necessary for academic and technical colleagues to overcome the challenges of Covid to create certainty and direction for students; a vibrant learning community, whilst recognising the positive impact of the pandemic. Key initiatives have included using workbooks to create certainty for the students linked to the virtual learning environment where academics have a rich repository of learning resources; community and wellbeing through creating a regular on line Art Club for academics and students to jointly connect with creativity outside the curriculum and retain practical skills; curriculum enhancement through virtual travel to workshops with industry experts, enhanced digital skills for academics and students and enriched curriculum with a focus on sustainability, technology and responsible design. This paper concludes that the pandemic is an opportunity for a different way of working, a broader curriculum and co-creation opportunities for staff and students. It is a crucial time for fashion and textiles educators to seize the opportunity to reimagine, combining the optimum attributes of a practice-based studio culture with a broader curriculum delivered in a blended approach, and equip students and graduates with relevance and responsibility to respond to the needs of a changing industry.